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Fascia & Soffit Repair cost estimating in Boise and the Treasure Valley
Licensed Idaho Contractor

ESTIMATOR · BOISE & TREASURE VALLEY

Fascia & Soffit Cost Calculator in Boise & the Treasure Valley

Fascia and soffit repair is priced by linear footage and the extent of the rot — sound-wood replacement is cheaper than tearing into water-damaged board that's spread to the soffit and rafter tails. Material choice (PVC, composite, cement, aluminum-wrap, cedar) and story count also move the number. We work from national professional ranges adapted to the Treasure Valley because no Idaho-specific published per-foot figure exists; the on-site visit produces the written quote.

Use the calculator below for a quick range, then read the cost drivers and example project profiles to see where your home likely falls.

WHAT YOU’LL GET

A ranged fascia & soffit estimate, in under a minute.

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    Three figures, not one. We never publish exact prices — every home is different.

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COST DRIVERS

What drives the cost of fascia & soffit.

Fascia and soffit repair is priced by linear footage and the extent of the rot — sound-wood replacement is cheaper than tearing into water-damaged board that's spread to the soffit and rafter tails. Material choice (PVC, composite, cement, aluminum-wrap, cedar) and story count also move the number. We work from national professional ranges adapted to the Treasure Valley because no Idaho-specific published per-foot figure exists; the on-site visit produces the written quote.

    WHAT’S INCLUDED

    What’s included in a fascia & soffit visit.

    1. Inspection and rot mapping

      We probe the fascia and soffit to find where the wood has gone soft, trace how far the decay has spread, and check the rafter tails behind the boards. Because fascia rot is usually gutter-driven, we also look at why water is reaching the wood — overflow, back-pitch, a pulled section, or a failed downspout — so the repair fixes the cause, not just the symptom.

    2. Gutter detachment and tear-out

      We detach the affected gutter runs, then remove the rotted fascia board and any decayed soffit panels. Off comes everything that's soft, spongy, or showing the cascade staining where water has been dripping from the fascia onto the soffit.

    3. Rafter tail treatment and substrate prep

      With the boards off, we inspect and treat the exposed rafter tails and sub-fascia. Any framing that's begun to decay from prolonged wetness is addressed before we close the eave back up — covering rot doesn't stop it.

    4. Rebuild on rot-resistant material

      New fascia and soffit go up in the material you chose — PVC, composite, cement/Hardie, or aluminum-wrapped wood — sized and fastened to give the gutters a solid nailing surface. We restore continuous soffit ventilation so the attic airflow that keeps the eave dry (and helps prevent ice dams) stays intact.

    5. Re-hang and re-pitch gutters

      Gutters are re-hung on hidden-hanger screws into the new solid board, re-pitched toward the downspouts, and resealed at any joints we opened. This is the step that's impossible on rotted wood and the reason fascia repair and gutter work belong in the same visit.

    6. Water test and walkthrough

      We flush the re-hung runs to confirm the gutters drain and the rebuilt eave stays dry. We walk the work with you, explain what caused the rot, and leave a written summary so you know what to watch for going forward.

    QUESTIONS

    Fascia & Soffit cost questions.

    Frequently asked questions

    How much does fascia and soffit repair cost in the Treasure Valley?

    No Idaho-specific published per-foot figure exists, so we work from national professional ranges adapted to the Treasure Valley: roughly $6–$20 per linear foot installed for sound-wood replacement, and about $10–$23 per linear foot where water or rot damage is involved. A typical whole-home fascia project nationally lands in the $1,050–$3,300 range. The variables are the same here as anywhere — total footage, how far the rot has spread into the soffit and rafter tails, story count, and the replacement material. We give you a written number on-site.

    What causes fascia rot in the first place?

    Almost always the gutters. When gutters clog, overflow, slope the wrong way, or pull slightly away from the house, water saturates the wood fascia behind them. That perpetual dampness pushes paint off from the inside out and breaks down the wood fibers until the board goes soft. Water running down the rotting fascia then drips onto the soffit below, so soffit decay is typically a cascade failure that follows the fascia. Prolonged wetness can extend the rot into the roof framing behind the boards.

    Can you replace the fascia and re-hang my gutters in one visit?

    Yes — and that's the right way to do it. As a licensed Idaho gutter contractor (RCE-6681702), we coordinate the carpentry and the gutter work together: tear out the rot, rebuild on solid rot-resistant material, then re-pitch and re-hang the gutters off the new board. You cannot properly re-hang gutters on rotted fascia, which is why a gutter that keeps pulling away is often a fascia problem first.

    What material do you replace rotted fascia with?

    It depends on budget and the look you want. PVC and composite (roughly $3–$7/ft material, national ranges) and aluminum-wrapped wood (aluminum trim runs higher) resist the moisture rot that destroys bare wood, so they're our usual recommendation in a gutter-fed eave. Cedar and cement/Hardie are also options. We talk through the tradeoffs on-site rather than defaulting to whatever's cheapest.

    How do ice dams damage fascia and soffit?

    Ice dams form when attic heat melts roof snow during the day and it refreezes at the cold eave overnight. After repeated freeze-thaw cycles, meltwater backs up under the shingles and into the eave, soffit, and fascia area. Boise averages about 17.6 inches of snow over roughly 18 snow days a year (NOAA 1991–2020 normals), so that melt-and-refreeze pattern is a recurring driver of eave rot here. The National Weather Service recommends at least R-30 attic insulation plus continuous soffit-to-ridge ventilation to keep the attic cold and minimize the cycle — which is why restoring soffit ventilation is part of our repair.

    NEXT STEP

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